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Let's Get Real:
Why Do Some Mat Cutters Cost Three Times As Much As Others?
How can you feel confident spending less than $500 for a
mat cutter when you know there are mat cutters that cost three times as
much? What's the difference?
As always the old axiom “You
get what you pay for” is relevant here, but the question remains, Do you
receive three times as much value for a mat cutter that costs three
times as much? And the answer is, Probably not.
All mat
cutters perform pretty much the same functions, to cut beveled-edged
windows in mats and to reduce full size sheets of matboard to the same
size as the frame they will fit into. Sure, there are other bells and
whistles: V-Grooving ability, the ability to cut 8-ply (double-thick
matboard) and the ability to cut reverse-bevel mats, but at the end of
the day, all these provisions are available on mat cutters costing
$499.00, so why pay $2,000.00, or $1,500.00 or even $1,000.00? To hear
the manufacturers tell it, it’s for “Production Capability,” the
ability, in other words, to cut 100 mats a week or more on an on-going
basis.
The
unstated assumption here is that mat cutters costing less than $1,000.00
are not “production capable,” but even this is not true.
The Logan
Model 650 Framer’s Edge Mat Cutter costs a only $699.00, even in its
60” oversize version, and it’s a production mat cutter designed to stand
up to the wear and tear of 100 or more mats a week on an ongoing basis.
So what gives?
If
pressed on the subject, salespeople invested in higher end mat cutters
will imply that common mat cutting bugaboos such as over cuts and hooked
corners are rarely a problem and need not be a concern. If so, then why
not provide an iron-clad guarantee with your mat cutter that over cuts
and hooked corners will not occur? These manufacturers are loathe to do so because
they know that over cuts and hooked corners are endemic to mat cutting
and that no amount of money will conclusively eradicate them, that,
indeed, the only way to conquer over cuts and hooked corners is with
user know-how, something that comes at about the same price regardless
of the mat cutter you own or the amount you paid for it.
So does
this mean that paying more than $1,000 for a mat cutter is never worth
it? I wouldn’t say that. Remember high priced mat cutters do have some
interesting features that lower priced mat cutters don’t have. They
typically have aluminum bases rather than wooden bases which mean they
will never warp. (Not a big problem even with wood based mat cutters
but something worth noting.) They also typically have wider bases by a
few inches, but if the matboard is 40” and the baseboard is 20” you
still don’t support the entire sheet, although it should be mentioned
that some of these cutters have extension supports.
The
most worthwhile feature of a high-end mat cutter is the smooth way the
cutting head rides on the guide rail. Some higher end systems have ball
bearings sandwiched between the cutting heads and the guide rail so
there is minimum resistance and a mere flick of the cutting head causes
it to move. While the cutting heads on less expensive mat cutters
certainly don’t drag, they don’t glide as easily as those on a mat
cutter with ball bearings – a worthwhile consideration if you’re
planning on cutting hundreds of mats in succession.
But the
single biggest reason why shoppers may opt for higher-priced mat cutters
has to do with the nature of the picture framing business. Few
businesses are as inexpensive to get involved in as the picture framing
business. Those starting out find that even with an outlay for
considerable inventory their total capital investment can be less than
$10,000. Since a mat cutter is the most essential piece of
equipment in their arsenal it makes little sense to buy anything less
than the best, particularly when the best is still costing you less than $2,500.
Naturally, the outlook is quite different if you are not opening a
commercial storefront and simply want to frame for yourself or run a
small picture framing business out of your home. In these cases,
high-priced mat cutters tend to be overkill, giving you more than you
need in areas where you don’t really need it and essentially the same
performance in areas where you can get away paying far less.
Are high-priced mat
cutters worth the extra amount you pay for them? Well, it depends on
who you are. But for many people, the answer is probably not.
If you would like to learn more about
mat cutters, click here.
If you would like to shop for mat
cutters, click here.
For a list of
upcoming hands-on matting and framing workshops featuring mat
cutters,
click here.
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Marbling on the Surface of a
Mat
Marbling techniques can be divided into two categories: paper
application methods and painterly methods.
Paper application methods involve the use of a quality art paper
with a marbled design on it. These papers can be found at most art
material supply stores and are available in a variety of color schemes.
Choose a color scheme that complements your artwork and adhere it to the
surface of your matboard before cutting the window.
Three alternatives offer themselves for adhering the paper to the
matboard. A spray adhesive can be sprayed evenly over the surface of
the matboard. The marbled paper, which had been cut slightly larger
than the matboard blank, is then placed face up on the freshly sprayed
surface. It is allowed to dry under weight for several hours. Then the
excess paper is trimmed away at the edges. Finally the window is cut in
the mat.
Following the same basic steps, liquid adhesive can be used in place of
spray adhesive.
A third mounting method is available with the use of Crescent’s Perfect
Mount® board. This is a matboard that comes pre-covered with a thin
adhesive film. Just peel off the protective surface paper and place the
marbled paper face up on the board. Press it flat by hand and allow it
to set under even weight for a couple of hours. Then cut the window as
usual.
Painterly methods involve painting the marbled effect onto the matboard
surface. Three colors usually convey the depth of a marbled surface.
Use acrylic paints and start with the darkest color first. Apply the
paint using a lightly charged cellulose sponge. Let dry five minutes
before applying the middle tone. Then let dry again before applying a
minimal amount of the lightest tone. To complete the effect, use a
feather to create veins and crack lines.
Crumpled Saran
Wrap® provides an alternative method for painting directly on the
matboard. Choose a mat in a base color that coordinates with the
artwork and seal the surface with at least 3 coats of acrylic painting
medium. Allow the medium to dry completely between coats.
Choose a texture color and dilute it with water to the
consistency of canned cream. Then quickly brush it onto the surface of
the mat and lay crumpled Saran Wrap® on the still wet surface, being
sure to cover it completely. Allow the plastic wrap to set for 8-10
minutes, then remove it. The resulting texture is very organic and
dimensional in character. If veins are desired, you may apply them with
a feather or a fine brush.
If you prefer marbled panels, you will find instructions for how to
apply them in the March 96’ issue of this newsletter.
Marble effects have
grown in popularity and the methods available for creating them have
expanded to meet the demand. Now you can choose from the method that
best suits you.
If you would like to learn more about matting design, click here.
For a list of
upcoming hands-on matting and framing workshops,
click here.
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