What is Length Moulding?
Length moulding is a long stick of
picture frame moulding, 3 ft., 4 ft. or 5 ft. long, that you cut and
join yourself using frame making equipment such as a miter saw, sander
and V-Nail joiner. While it costs more to buy the equipment,
length moulding generally costs 50%- 70% less than sectional moulding.
To select an appropriate length and width of molding follow these steps:
Step One:
Decide on
an Appropriate Width of Molding.
The width of the molding is the distance across the face, the part that
is facing outward when the frame is hanging on the wall. As a rule
of thumb consider a frame width of about 1" for frame sizes from 8"x10" to
15"x19". Consider a frame width of about 1.5" for frame sizes from
16"x20" to 23"x25". Consider a frame width of
about 2" for frame sizes
24"x36" and larger.
Step Two:
Select the Desired Style of Molding.
Click Here to go the
molding catalog.
Look over the selections and choose the frame style you want, note the
width of the molding you choose.
Step Three: Determine the Appropriate Lengths of Molding Needed to Make Your Frame.
First,
add together the four sides of the frame you wish to make. For
example:
To make a 16"x20" frame, figure 16+16+20+20= 72".
Second,
multiply
the width of the molding by 8, and add that to the sum.
For example: To make a 16"x20" frame using a 1.5" wide molding,
multiply 1.5" x 8 = 12", then add 12" to 72". ie., 12"+ 72" = 84".
Third,
add an inch and a half to the total to allow for some breathing room in
the frame recess so the stack of matboard, foamboard and glazing doesn't
fit too tightly, and also to allow for the thickness of the blade when
it cuts the molding.
For example: 84" + 1˝" = 85˝".
Fourth,
at this point you know the length of the molding in inches,
to discover the length of the molding
in feet, divide the length in inches by 12.
For example: 85˝"÷12= 7-1/8
feet.
Fifth,
select the best combination of available lengths to make your
frame. For example:
Since the moldings are not sold in 7-1/8 foot lengths, you will
need two lengths.
Remember, it is always better to have more than you need. To cut
the above molding, two 4 foot lengths would be appropriate.
The table below gives you some insight into the molding lengths
necessary to make various size frames:
| Frame Size | 2 lengths of.... | 2 lengths of.... | Total inches (or feet) needed |
Molding necessary to make it |
| 8"x10" 1" wide molding |
10" (x2) | 12" (x2) | 44" 3.66 feet |
(2) 3 ft. |
| 11"x14" 1" wide molding |
13" (x2) | 16" (x2) | 58" 4.83 feet |
(2) 3 ft. |
| 14"x18" 1" wide molding |
16" (x2) | 20" (x2) | 72" 6 feet |
(2) 4 ft.* |
| 18"x24" 1.5" wide molding |
21" (x2) | 27" (x2) | 96" 8 feet |
(1) 4 ft.* (1) 5 ft. |
| 24"x36" 2" wide molding |
28" (x2) | 40" (x2) | 136" 11.3 feet |
(2) 4 ft. (1) 5 ft. |
* When the necessary footage requires an exact (or nearly exact) length, the wise framer defaults to the next longer length, allowing for a little extra room.
Step Four:
Click Here to Go to the
Equipment for
Frame Making Page
Step Five:
Cut and Join Your Picture Frame Moldings.
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Sectional Frames are frames cut
to the whatever size you want and shipped to you ready to assemble
without tools. (No Joining Equipment is Required.)
Here's how you assemble sectionals..
 |
 |
| Step 1: Match up two mitered ends. (Note: Apply wood glue first.) | Step 2: Press the ends
together to form a corner. |
 |
 |
| Step 3: Insert the peg into the corner. | Step 4: Repeat for the remaining three corners. |
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The most cost effective method of shipping a length of picture frame moldings in small quantities is through UPS and FED EX. Unfortunately, UPS and FED EX are essentially package services and frown on large packages which don't fit on their conveyor belts and are difficult to sort, requiring special handling. When they encounter such packages, they charge a special OVERSIZE RATE which is equivalent to a package weighing 30 lbs. For a lightweight, low cost item like picture frame molding, which may only weigh 5 or 6 pounds, this adds significantly to the cost. At Framing4Yourself.com, while our shopping cart system provides the actual UPS charge for shipping when you check out, it does not factor in any oversize charges. This is not a problem on moldings that are 3 ft, 4 ft or 5 ft in length, because they are not considered oversize by UPS or Fed Ex, but on moldings that are 6 ft. or longer, the OVERSIZE charge applies. Since the shopping cart does not factor in the oversize charges at check out, we have included it in the price of the molding, which explains the dramatic up tick in cost when you go from a 5 ft. to a 7 ft. molding. THERE IS AN EASY WAY AROUND THIS COST. Whenever possible, purchase a combination of 3, 4 or 5 ft. moldings to make your frames. For example, a 16"x20" frame made of Clubhouse Collection Moulding can be made from one 8 ft. length at a price of $38.50. Or it can be made from (2) 4 ft. lengths at a price of only $20 . You see, it is almost always worthwhile to figure out how to make your frame from combinations of shorter lengths. To learn how to do so, click here.
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Cutting mitered (ie., angled) corners to create picture frame moldings is a delicate business. Inaccuracies in cutting are common and to be expected. However, you can reduce the amount and degree of these inaccuracies by outfitting yourself with the proper tools. If you are cutting molding with a manual (ie. hacksaw-type) miter saw, make sure to purchase one specifically recommended for cutting picture frame moldings. If you are cutting with a power miter saw, replace the blade that comes with the saw with an 80-tooth carbide blade, or one with even more teeth. The blades included with most power miter saws cut too roughly for making picture frame moldings.
Surrender to the fact that, even after you have purchased the proper tools, you will probably have to do some sanding to make the miters precise. Use 120-grit (medium) and 220-grit (fine) sandpaper, or purchase a sanding wheel.
Outfit yourself with a measuring system designed specifically for measuring picture frame moldings. These systems are graduated at 45° angles for cutting 45° miters. Regular tape measures or rulers can be pose a problem since these are ruled at 90°.
Use a thin lead pencil when marking the moldings for cutting. Thick lead, such as in a carpenter's pencil, can cause your cut to be off by 1/16" or more.
Take a look at the blade, notice how the saw's teeth are staggered left and right of the blade. When cutting, align the teeth so they are slanting toward the pencil mark, not away from it.
After cutting, line up two frame
sections of the same size back to back so their miters are flush with
each other. Run your finger across the surface of the two miters
to be sure they are flush. Then do the same at the opposite end.
If the miters at the opposite end are not also perfectly flush, some
sanding is called for. Sand and repeat this procedure until the
miters at both ends of the two sections are perfectly flush when lined
up back to back.
For joining using the BenchMaster II V-Nail Joiner, place a dime sized
drop of wood glue on each miter face, then, using the FrameCo steel
strap clamp, clamp your frame together. Wipe away any excess glue
that squeezes out at the join.
Use the correct V-Nails for your molding. Use hardwood V-Nails for
hard woods like Oak and Maple, and use Soft/Medium V-Nails for soft and
medium moldings like Pine and Basswood. Check your V-Nails for the
edge that is coated with the white or red silicon. This is the
edge that must penetrate the molding first.
Place the V-Nail on the magnetic nose of the driver so that its wings
are oriented in the same direction as the frame sections. Place
your V-Nails closer to the rabbet rather than closer to the perimeter
edge of the molding.
After joining, let the glue dry fully before loading in your stack of
matboard, foamboard and glazing.
To fully comprehend the savings to be enjoyed, one has to acknowledge the different potential sources for frames and the different prices. For example, the worst case scenario when it comes to price is traditional custom framing where a typical 1" wide molding like our #7848, when put together with mounted artwork, double mat, backing and glazing in a size of 16"x20" can easily cost in excess of $120.
This molding, when purchased from Framing4Yourself in two four foot lengths, will cost $19.60. Since it is possible to acquire four 16"x20" mats from a 32"x40" sheet, one sheet of matboard that costs $5.50 yields a 16"x20" that costs only $1.37. To make a double mat will require two of these, so the cost for matting is $2.75. Foamboard purchased from Framing4Yourself at $4.50 per sheet will yield four 16"x20"'s, so the cost for foamboard backing is $1.13. Acrylic glazing in 16"x20" at Framing4Yourself is $5.62 a sheet. Put it all together with a handful of tape and hardware that amounts to about $1.00, and you have a framed, double matted, glazed and backed piece for $30 - a savings of $90 over the cost of the same item custom framed.
Comparing
only the frame against the cost of a comparable frame purchased from a
supplier who miter cuts and prepares the frame for joining. The
frame by itself, when purchased from said supplier in a 16"x20" size is
about $30. When purchased from Framing4Yourself in length, it's
only $19.60, a saving of more than $10 or 30%. Plus, with
Framing4Yourself, the selection is over twice as large as with outfits
that cut their frames ahead of time.
No matter how you slice it, when you custom frame for yourself by
cutting and joining your own frames, you will enjoy substantial savings
over any other method of picture framing. Leaving aside the
enjoyment to be derived from designing and preparing your own framing,
the savings themselves should be enough to convince you that you ought
to be "Framing 4 Yourself!"
About Luxury Frames
Q. What is a rabbet?
What's rabbet depth? And why should I care?
A. The "rabbet" is picture framing lingo for the recess at
the back of a wood frame that holds the glass, mat and backing.
It's important to know how deep this recess is since it varies from
frame to frame and affects your ability to hold the contents in the
frame. Most framers use a
point driver and points
to hold the contents in. A point is a sharpened metal tab inserted
perpendicularly into the side of the frame rabbet but cannot be used if
the stack of contents is thicker than the rabbet is deep. In such
cases, framers use
off-set clips to hold the contents in, but since it's much easier
and faster to use points with a point driver, framers prefer to select a
frame with a rabbet deep enough to insert a point. A frame rabbet
of at least 3/8-inch is recommended for a stack consisting of a single
mat, 1/8" thick foamboard back and glass. When a double mat is
used, a rabbet depth of at 1/2-inch is recommended.
Q. How is the width of the frame measured?
A. The width of the frame is measured from the perimeter
edge to the inside edge of the frame's window, including the rabbet.
Q. Is the ornamentation on the face of the Luxury Frames
fragile or delicate?
A. No. This is a sturdy mold and contour that cannot
be easily chipped, scratched or broken.
Q. How heavy are the Luxury Frames?
A. These frames are substantial. For example, a
16"x20" of any of these designs will weigh in excess of 2 pounds.
When hanging these frames with wire, use a 43lb wire and two-hole strap
hangers, or use corner brackets like wall buddies.