Mat Cutter Tips and Techniques Part 2

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	*Article #7:* *How to Cut Left Handed with a Logan Mat Cutter* Darned if there isn't about one-quarter of the population out there who are southpaws. Here's how Logan suggests they get comfortable cutting mats. Click Here to Learn More		*Article #8:* How to Troubleshoot Common Mat Cutting Problems From overcuts to wavy bevels to blades that won't cut through. Here are some insights to help overcome the most common mat cutting problems. *Click Here to Learn More* More Mat Cutting Tips and Techniques Back to Mat Cutter Page
	More Mat Cutting Tips and Techniques Back to Mat Cutter Page *Article #9:* My Matting is a Disaster. What am I Doing Wrong? *The culprit is probably blade depth. Incorrectly setting the depth of your blade can lead to a rash of problems, for the following reasons...* *Click Here to Learn More*		Article #10: Adjusting Your Mat Cutter for Proper Blade Depth *Getting your mat cutter's blade depth set just right can mean the difference between fuming and rejoicing. Here's how to make yourself happy.* *Click Here to Learn More* More Mat Cutting Tips and Techniques
	More Mat Cutting Tips and Techniques Back to Mat Cutter Page		Back to Mat Cutter Page

Cutting Left-Handed

We receive calls from time to time on the subject of left-handed cutting. The answer is yes, you can cut left-handed with Logan equipment. The trick seems to be that a left-handed person can operate the cutting head from the opposite direction a right-handed person would. This allows the lefty to use their left hand to manipulate the cutting head and still see the start and stop line to achieve good corners.

To use a #2000 or #302 "Push-Style" cutting head:
Go to the other end of the mat board as you would when right hand cutting. Place the left hand on the cutting head, insert the blade and pull the cutting head towards yourself. Keep the wrist elevated so as to see the start and stop indicator.

To use a #3000, #4000 or #702 "Pull-Style" cutting head:
Go to the other end of the mat board as you would when right hand cutting. Place the left hand on the cutting head, insert the blade and push the cutting head away from yourself. Keep the wrist elevated so as to see the start and stop indicator.

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Troubleshooting Questions and Answers

Q: Why am I getting a hook in the corners or a curve in the bevel cut?

A: The blade is probably cutting too deep. Check with your instruction manual to properly adjust your blade so that it barely passes through the mat you are cutting and only scores the backing sheet. Excess blade will flex causing as hook or curve.

Q: Why am I getting overcuts in the corners?

A: The blade is probably cutting too deep. Check with your instruction manual to properly adjust your blade so that it barely passes through the mat you are cutting and only scores the backing sheet. Excess blade start the cut too soon and stop the cut too late causing an overcut.

Q: Is using production stops the fool proof way to get perfect mats?

A: No, production stops are exactly that. Production stops that are used when production mat cutting which is cutting many mats in succession that are the same size. The stops speed the whole process of repeat cuts. They are only accurate if you set them properly and have your blade depth set properly.

Q: Why am I getting a ragged cut?

A: Make sure you are using a proper backing sheet under the mat you are cutting. The best material to use is scrap matboard. Never use self-healing vinyl desk tops pads. A proper backing sheet creates a better finished cut by supporting the face paper of the mat you are cutting. Or your blade may be dull. Change your blades often and whenever starting a new project.

Q: How come I don't cut all the way through the matboard?

A: Make sure you are using a fresh blade. Also make sure you are applying sufficient and even pressure on the cutting head throughout the cut. The last resort would be to increase the blade depth slightly.

Q: Why is my bevel cut going the wrong way?

A: Always cut from the back of the matboard to avoid a reversed bevel. See that you are cutting from the proper sides of the lines. Cutting from the wrong sides of the marked lines will cause a reverse bevel.

Q: Why are my mats not coming out square?

A: First off understand that full sheets of matboard bought at a store will most likely be un-square. To insure all four sides to be square, you must cut all four sides in a perfectly square matcutter. If you still have the problem consult the instruction manual on how to check and re-square your squaring arm. (machines that have squaring arms only)

Q: Do I need to buy the most expensive machine to get the best looking mats?

A: No, all Logan mat cutters produce identical looking high quality mats. The more you spend on the equipment the faster, more comfortable and more durable the machine will be. Decide on how much matting you will be doing before purchasing.

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The importance of proper blade depth

Using the right amount of blade depth on a mat cutter is probably the most crucial area to recognize in achieving good mats. It's also one of the most over looked areas. Excess blade depth can cause a number of problems that appear unsolvable unless you know what to do. Below are some typical symptoms of excess blade depth.

	Problem	Cause
	Hook or curve in the beginning of each cut only.	The initial plunge of the blade into the mat board is causing the blade tip to flex outward and immediately go back to a straight position once cutting begins. This is caused by too much blade extending out the bottom of the cutting head.
	Long curve in length of cut	Excess blade depth allows the blade to flare outward during the entire cut resulting in a long curve from one corner to another. This is caused by too much blade extending out the bottom of the cutting head.
	Over cuts (blade cutting past each corner with visible mark)	Because of excess blade depth the start and stop indicator line on the cutting head is no longer accurate. Using it causes the blade to start its cuts sooner and stop its cut later than needed resulting in cuts that go past the corners. This too is caused by too much blade extending out the bottom of the cutting head.
	Blade tip breaking off	Because of excess blade depth the initial plunge of the blade into the mat board is applying too much stress to the blade tip causing it to break off.
	Cutting head hard to pull	Because of excess depth, the blade is cutting easily through the thickness of the matboard but far too deeply Into the backing board. This extra material cutting adds more resistance to the cut.
	Blades dulling too quickly	Although the cutting life of a blade is difficult to predict, unnecessary excess blade depth certainly dulls a blade faster than usual. Proper blade depth ensures the longest life possible from a blade.

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Adjusting your mat cutter for proper blade depth

1. Hold the bevel cutter upside down in your hand with the blade activated in the cutting position.

2. Looking at the tip of the blade, measure the exposed amount with a ruler at the same angle as the blade. For standard thickness mat board (4 ply) only 1/8" (0.3175cm) of blade should be seen. To adjust, find the screw head recessed below the bottom of the surface of the cutting head near where the blade is coming out.

3. Turning the screw to the right (clockwise) will decrease the blade depth, the left (counterclockwise) will increase the blade depth. Not all matboard requires 1/8" (0.3175cm). Thicker matboard will require more. Always have the blade depth set so that the backing sheet is scored only slightly. This test and adjustment needs to be done periodically as mat board has many variances of thickness and the depth can increase itself over time with regular use.

4. Another way to test your blade depth is to examine your backing sheet after making a cut. The blade tip should just score into the top of the backing sheet. Cutting even half way through the backing sheet is entirely too much blade.

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