Advantages of Sectional Frames
Sectional frames provide a cost advantage
over all-ready-assembled frames ("ready-made frames") because they
ship to you disassembled via UPS or FEDEX GROUND and do not incur
costly oversize charges. In addition their price per inch is
lower than ready-mades.
Also, they enjoy an ease-of-use advantage over length moulding in that
they do not require framing tools (saws, sanders or joiners) to
assemble, and assemble easily, with clean fitting seams, in seconds.
Tips for Assembling Wood Sectional Frames
What to Expect
Wood sectional frames are assembled using a peg and
slot system that is sometimes referred to as “T-Nailing”, sometimes
as “Wedging,” and sometimes as “Rout and Insert”. In any case, the
basic procedure is the same: a plastic peg (or wedge, or insert, if
you like) is inserted into a routed slot that is formed by pressing
together the mitered ends of two frame sections, forming a corner.
With the application of a thin layer of wood glue to the mitered
ends, the hold of the peg is more than sufficient to sustain the
weight of the frame contents.
Frames wider than 2-1/2” typically
have two slots in each corner, requiring eight pegs in all to
assemble the frame. Frames less than 2-1/2” typically only have one
slot in each corner. The proper number of pegs necessary to
assemble the frame is included with each frame at no additional
cost. You will have to purchase your wood glue separately in the
area of the website called “Accessories for Frame Making.”
Assembly Tips
The assembly of wood sectional frames is easy, but
you will benefit from a few tips. Select two frame sections - a
long section and a short section. Apply a small bead of wood glue
to the mitered end of one section and spread it into a thin layer
using a rag or paper towel. Lay the frame sections face down on a
table top and press the mitered ends of the two sections together,
aligning the slots or “routs” until they assume the shape of the
peg. Insert the peg in the slot and press it down with your thumb
until it stays in place. Usually, the peg will not sink all the way
down flush with the back of the frame at this point. Don’t worry,
more about that in a moment. For now, make sure the peg sinks far
enough into the slot so it doesn’t fall out and so the corner holds
together.
In all likelihood some wood glue
will squeeze out at the seam when the mitered ends are pressed
together. After pressing in the peg, turn the frame over, and using
a rag, wipe away any excess glue that has squeezed out. Repeat the
procedure, adjoining a third section to the first two; and then
adding the fourth. Each time, sink the peg far enough to keep it in
the slot and wipe away any excess glue by turning the frame over and
wiping along the seam.
Once the frame
is assembled with the pegs pressed part of the way into the slots,
try pressing down on each peg with your thumb one last time to see
if you can sink each deeper by that method. Next, turn the frame
over and place it face up on your table top so it rests on the
pegs. Place the heel of each hand on two diagonally opposite
corners of the frame and press down firmly to sink the pegs flush
with the back of the frame, pressing down on the face of the frame
and using the table top to drive the pegs in. Repeat for the other
two corners. Clean up any excess wood glue that squeezes out. Your
sectional wood frame is assembled. Wait one hour for the glue to
dry before loading the contents.
How the Calculator Works
When you click the
yellow button that says Get the Price you open a pop-up window. In the top part of the
window you enter the dimensions of the frame you want to price out;
for example, 16"x20". If you don't know
how to determine your frame
size, click here. You then click the gray "calculate..."
button, and in the bottom part of the window, you are shown the
price for that frame. If you want to order it, you click the
"Add to the Cart" button. If you want more than one of that
frame, you can increase the quantity at the next screen.
How to
Determine Frame Size
The words "frame size" refer to the dimensions of the
recess (or "rabbet") at the back of the frame into which the
matboard, backing and glass are loaded. For this reason, once
you've determined the overall size of your matboard, backing and
glass for a given project, you've determined your frame size.
So if your project calls for a mat and backing that are 14¾" x 17",
that's the size you enter into the calculator. It doesn't
really matter which dimension you consider the height or the width.
Just enter one dimension into each field and click the Calculate
Frame Price button. Want more on how the moulding calculator
works? Click
here.
Note: All frames are designed and built 1/8" larger on each
dimension than the size called for. This so called "allowance"
is common in picture framing and is provided to make sure the mat
and backing still fit into the frame even if they are cut a little
too large. You do not have to factor anything into your
calculations for the allowance when you order your frame, just order
the frame in accordance with the overall mat size and the allowance
will automatically be added for you. If you do not want an
allowance, you should call us at 1-800-246-4726 and specify "no
allowance".
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