Article #1: Tips for Cutting and Joining Picture Frame Moldings

Cutting mitered (ie., angled) corners to create picture frame moldings is a delicate business. Inaccuracies in cutting are common and to be expected. However, you can reduce the amount and degree of these inaccuracies by outfitting yourself with the proper tools. If you are cutting molding with a manual (ie. hacksaw-type) miter saw, make sure to purchase one specifically recommended for cutting picture frame moldings. If you are cutting with a power miter saw, replace the blade that comes with the saw with an 80-tooth carbide blade, or one with even more teeth. The blades included with most power miter saws cut too roughly for making picture frame moldings.

Surrender to the fact that, even after you have purchased the proper tools, you will probably have to do some sanding to make the miters precise. Use 120-grit (medium) and 220-grit (fine) sandpaper, or purchase a sanding wheel.

Outfit yourself with a measuring system designed specifically for measuring picture frame moldings. These systems are graduated at 45° angles for cutting 45° miters. Regular tape measures or rulers can be pose a problem since these are ruled at 90°.

Use a thin lead pencil when marking the moldings for cutting. Thick lead, such as in a carpenter's pencil, can cause your cut to be off by 1/16" or more.

Take a look at the blade, notice how the saw's teeth are staggered left and right of the blade. When cutting, align the teeth so they are slanting toward the pencil mark, not away from it. After cutting, line up two frame sections of the same size back to back so their miters are flush with each other. Run your finger across the surface of the two miters to be sure they are flush. Then do the same at the opposite end. If the miters at the opposite end are not also perfectly flush, some sanding is called for. Sand and repeat this procedure until the miters at both ends of the two sections are perfectly flush when lined up back to back.

For joining using the BenchMaster II V-Nail Joiner, place a dime sized drop of wood glue on each miter face, then, using the FrameCo steel strap clamp, clamp your frame together. Wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out at the join.

Use the correct V-Nails for your molding. Use hardwood V-Nails for hard woods like Oak and Maple, and use Soft/Medium V-Nails for soft and medium moldings like Pine and Basswood. Check your V-Nails for the edge that is coated with the white or red silicon. This is the edge that must penetrate the molding first.

Place the V-Nail on the magnetic nose of the driver so that its wings are oriented in the same direction as the frame sections. Place your V-Nails closer to the rabbet rather than closer to the perimeter edge of the molding.

After joining, let the glue dry fully before loading in your stack of matboard, foamboard and glazing.

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